Pale shadow of its former self
Every student in India knows that the British expanded their empire not just in India but across the world. By the end of the seventeenth century, 83% of the East India Company’s trade accounted for clothing exports. Ironically, this very sector that catapulted India onto the world stage , is now a pale shadow of its former self.
The handloom sector provides livelihood to more than 31.45 lakh households, according to the All India Handloom Census, 2019-20. Most of the weavers belong to impoverished backward or minority communities and consist of over 45 lakhs across India. In spite of the technological development, the ancient industry is strong in terms of infrastructure with 2.4 million looms of different designs.
After agriculture, it is the handloom sector that provides employment in large number in rural India.
Potential Lost
A Gadwal or Pochampally saree in an upmarket store could easily be sold for Rs 15,000 to Rs 20,000 and above and handloom material in hundreds of dollars in Paris and Milan but according to the Fourth Handloom All India Census 2019-20, 66.3% households earn less than Rs 5000 per month.
The potential this sector has, is immense. 7.97 lakhs handloom worker households weave products such as shawls, stole, scarf, and muffler, which is approximately 26.7% of all households.
Durries, rugs, and mats are woven by 3.5% of handloom worker households, which is approximately 1.01 lakhs households. Only if these are marketed well and could reach the European market, India could well dominate world trade.
Dress material (salwar, kameez, etc.), suiting, shirting, long cloth is woven by 3.2% (or approximately 0.95 lakhs) handloom worker households.
Market
- The export of hand loom products from India was valued at US $ 343.69 million in FY 2018-19. In FY20 (till November 2019), the exports stood at US $ 226.05 million.
- In FY 2019, the US was the major importer of Indian handloom products, with estimated purchases of US $ 93.94 million, followed by the UK, Italy and Germany at US $ 17.77 million, US $ 16.47 and US $ 14.65 million, respectively.
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Nearly 15 per cent of cloth production in India is from Hand loom sector.
- Cloth production in 2018-19 stood at 70,070 square meters while during from April to December 2019, at 52,394 square meters.
- Production of hand-woven fabric from India constitutes 95 per cent of global production.
Telangana story
While Kerala, West Bengal and the North-eastern states are strong in the handloom sector, Telangana too has a fair share. Telangana has 20,000 looms with 35,000 weavers including labour skilled in processing, dyeing, designing, sizing.
The lack of marketing is cited as the main reason for the sorry state of affairs of the handloom sector.
Opportunities galore
Ethnic wear is gaining popularity in the fashion world and designers, not just in India, but also the West have been looking towards handloom. There is a huge potential for entrepreneurs and start-ups.
The demand is huge in the international market but the present models are ineffective.
